Tablehopping

Review from “What’s on in London” Magazine by Natasha Blair.

I had fond memories of the Kalamaras from many years ago when eating Greek food was a rarity. In fact, the restaurant was established in 1966 but taken over by new management a few years ago. It’s slightly off the beaten track, although just a stone’s throw from Queensway. However you need to have exact instructions as to where it is or you might end up driving round and round the one-way system. Rather than being off Inverness Terrace, look for Inverness Place, a road off Queensway, Inverness Mews is off that. It has a very welcoming exterior, and there is even a table outside despite the cold weather. The décor has changed considerably from its taverna look with more stylish white walls and the use of blue, echoing the colours of the Greek islands. There is now air-conditioning and tiled floors. Greek music helps create the right atmosphere.

The menu provides for a choice of different types of Mezze at £22 or £27 a person, for a minimum of two people. This allows you to pick out the dishes you want rather than having a set-menu with dishes that you don’t like. There is also a small Ouzo Meze for two people at £25 which includes a tipple of the country’s local drink. Starters on the á la carte menu are divided into hot and cold sections, including all the well-known dips such as Taramosaláta, made with cod’s roe; Melitzanosaláta, which is aubergine; and Houmoús, made from ground chick peas. We tried something not seen so much on menus in London: Saganáki, fried Greek cheese which needs to be eaten while still warm, and deep-fried baby squid served with wedges of lemon, evoking memories of sunnier days, and outdoor eating. The portions are generous, but beware of the soups which are very thick and filing – Soupa Horiátiki a filling vegetable soup, or Fasolada, a bean stew flavoured with parsley and dill.

The staff are Greek and very friendly, although there is a language problem. The descriptions under each dish are helpful. The choice of main course is divided into three sections, chef’s specialities, charcoal barbeque and fish, and there is plenty of choice. King-sized prawns grilled with a dressing of olive oil and lemon come both as a starter or main course. Garíthes me Feta, king prawns cooked with shallots, olives and herbs in a spicy tomato sauce, and feta cheese is an unusual but typical dish; sea bass and sea bream come with simpler dressings. The menu recommendation is the grilled pieces of pork marinated in lemon sauce.

A meal cannot be finished without a mouthful of one of the really sweet, syrupy but delicious, Greek desserts. Both the baklava, with pistachio nuts in a filo pastry casing and Kataïfi, which has a semolina filling, are made by the restaurant’s own pastry chef. A light, friendly and a pleasant place in which to spend an evening, the Kalamaras Taverna is daubed in the blue and white colours of the Greek flag. It’s set in a pretty mews just behind Queensway, which must have next-to-no passing trade – but those in the know have been coming here for more than 40 years. Staff are charming and the food a delight. Dishes such as kleftiko, moussaka, dolmades and stifado sit alongside lesser-known dishes such as king prawns cooked in olive oil with shallots, parsley, thyme and oregano, stirred in tomato sauce and sprinkled with olives and feta cheese. For £22 per person, the mezze menu makes a low-cost way to navigate the menu.

Squaremeal.co.uk, November 2007 - Sam, April 2008

“This is the kind of gem that reminds you why you live in London. Great food, great wine, fantastic décor and atmosphere (even for a Monday) and the friendliest staff I have come across for a long time. The imported bottled water even makes you feel as though you’re on holiday! thoroughly recommended.